Recently we did a trip to Tibet from April 23- May 8, 2017 for
14 days for ourselves and for people who left us. It was enchanting and gratifying
in many ways. Not many Bhutanese visit the most culturally similar region of
the world and had asked me for reviews. If there is one place outside Bhutan
where we can speak Dzongkha and expect to be half understood and everyone knows
a “Drukpa” it has to be Tibet. Many a times, I felt we found our long lost
cousins of our culture or Architecture or Music!
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The group on arrival in Lhasa
We were a group of 22 Bhutanese from all across Bhutan and
of all ages. The most calm Ap Phub from Chapcha to the oldest 78 years old Aum
Chencho of Paro, to the singer duo Nim Budha of Haa and Gyaltshen of Gasa and
extremely religious Dema of Yangtse. The trip was organized by Adventure Trekking Club of Bhutan, a tourism agent in Bhutan specialized in both tourists coming
into Bhutan and Bhutanese traveling aboard to places such as China and Sri
Lanka. This is apparently Tashi Gyaltshen, the tour leader's, 23rd trip
to the plateau. We chose Tashi and his team chiefly due to their
experience and knowledge of the area and assurance that permits would be
obtained. Believe me, permits to visit Tibet does not come easy and the
required package through a government approved agent (just like we have in
Bhutan) comes at a cost of US$ 3500 which is about Nu. 200,000 per person.
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| Our Ride in Tibet |
We visited the most sacred temple in Tibet,
the
Jokhang in Barkor, Lhasa, which has “Lhasa Jowo”, offered prayers
for the loved ones –living and dead. There are scores of people lined up to
offer gold paintings and tons of money and food signifying the spiritual peace
and content one accumulates. Hundreds of people doing the Barkor Kora chanting
manis, and prostrating only adds another dimension to the culture and beliefs. This
was followed by a leisurely walk to the Norbulingka Palace, a UNESCO world
heritage site which was the summer residence of the Dalai Lamas. It is said
that HH the Dalai Lama fled from the Norbulingka in 1959.
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| Barkor, by the Jokhang, Lhasa |
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| A move in front in the Jokhang, Lhasa |
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| The magnificent Potala Palace |
Another site was a hike upto the grand Potala Palace, on
Marpo Ri – the palace named after Mount Potalaka, the abode of Chenregzig.
Potala was the residence of the Dalai Lama and center of Tibet for many years
and now a museum and another UNESCO world heritage site. Potala is at around
3700 m and an architectural wonder with magnificent views of the Lhasa valley.
Potala can melt anyone’s heart and not just Captain Younghusband of the British
Army. The Kushula/Lama at the main chapel “Jowo” of Buddha was happy to notice
the Bhutanese group and our incense offerings. We were able to make room for
ourselves and offer moenlams right in the main chapel among the crowd of
tourists walking by. It was such a pleasant moment.
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| By the Potala Palace, Lhasa |
Climbing up the Lhasa valley, we were on wide mountain roads
ascending to 4770 m Gambala/Khambala pass to view the beautiful Yamdrok
Yumtsho. The lake is not only surreal but also sacred and vital for water
resource of Tibet with some 680 sq.km area. There were also posing with the
giant Tibetan Mastiffs which is almost a meter tall and Yak riding the glorious
way with full decorations at 4400m.
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| Ralung |
Ralung, the origin of Drukpa Kagyu School stands in between
nowhere at some 4700m with a cluster of ruins and a temple in the center that
is being renovated as well. Here too, the Kushula was delighted to have
visitors from Bhutan and went all out to help us perform a meonlam, and a round
of butter tea. If you have some money for donation, this is a good place to
contribute. It was quite an experience to imagine what Ralung might have been
before 1616 from where Zhandrung Rimpoche had come.
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| At Tra Druk Lhakhang, Tshethang |
The group also visited the towns of Gyantse, Shigatse and
Tshethang visiting places such as Kubum
Chorten with a Lakhs of Buddha paintings; Tashi Lhunpo, the seat of the Panchen
Lamas; Yubumlagang; Tra Druk Lhakhang, and finally at Samye. Samye is the first
Buddhist monastery built in Tibet by Guru Padmasambhava in the 8th
Century. The origin of Ging Tsholing Chaam is from Samye where Guru had subjugated
the demons on Hepori.
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| Samye Monastery, Samye |
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| The Palace of King Thritshong Ditchen, Samye |
We were also able to get blessings from numerous life like
statues, hundreds of golden scripts and great cultural exposures. It was quite
an amusement to see Tibetan dance troupes dancing to the tune of Kheng Sonam’s
Bumo Tshering Tshomo. Apparently, Dzongkha music videos and songs are quite
popular in Tibet.
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| Shigatshe Hotel |
My
adivse for a packaged Tibet a trip is to pack less change of clothings, prepare
for high altitude as much as you can. Take advises on drinking enough fluid
seriously. I do not remember anyone in the group of 22 not falling sick! There
are tons of great Wheat/Barley flours in the market and one do not take an
extra effort to carry with you to Tibet. If you need a guidbook, make sure to hide
it well or take PDFs or printouts as lonley planet is not appretiated in Tibet.
Travel Insurance is recommended which is only done by RICB and do not wait for
the last minute. Eldery patients need to do ECG, Blood and Urine tests. Accamalitization
at Phojoding or Chelela are good ideas and maybe even starting the trips at
Tshethang or Samye are possible options for slow asscend. Tourist vans and
hotels does have Oxyen clyinders and first aids on call, but not everyone
speaks english or even Tibetan at times.
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| By the Banks of Yarlung Tsangpo River |
For
offerings to temples, Bhutanese incense is a great idea, which was also
recommended by a friend and appretiated. On the first few days, take note of
what denominations you are changing your money to. We mistook the Jiao (1/10)
for Yaun, while other people had it the other way round. If you want Sinkuees (religious
bands that goes around the neck), make sure to take hundreds from Nepal or
Bhutan and have them blessed from the Temples in Tibet. Remember that there are
not many Lamas to bless the Sinkuees in Tibet. We werent quite successful in
getting many Sinkuees from Tibet. Khadars are in adbundance both to purchase
from outside or within the temples.
In
recent times, we have heard of pilgrims to Nepal and India not being contented
with their programs. Me and the group are highly pleased with our pilgirmage to
Tibet and the services we have been offered by Adventure Trekking Club. We
always had more than 3 Star hotel acccomodation, authentic Tibetan and Chinese
meals and everything as promised in the itinerary. It is also to be noted that
the group leader himself travels with the group and knows a lot about high
atltitude sickness and how to take care of a large group. I cannot imagine
myself trying to teach a 50 something year old Bhutanese farmer the concept of
time, airport check-in, dining in a 3Star hotel or how to turn on the hote
shower! But we do love these comforts at the end of the day! Tashi and the
local tibetan guide Tenzinla were extremly knowledgeable of their duties and
accomplished everything. I would highly recommend a trip to Tibet for any
Bhutanese, if possible, and with
Adventure Trekking Club would be complete if
you want to feel safe and secure.
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| And its back Home |
In
recent times, we have heard of pilgrims to Nepal and India not being contented
with their programs. Me and the group are highly pleased with our pilgirmage to
Tibet and the services we have been offered by Adventure Trekking Club. We
always had more than 3 Star hotel acccomodation, authentic Tibetan and Chinese
meals and everything as promised in the itinerary. It is also to be noted that
the group leader himself travels with the group and knows a lot about high
atltitude sickness and how to take care of a large group. I cannot imagine
myself trying to teach a 50 something year old Bhutanese farmer the concept of
time, airport check-in, dining in a 3Star hotel or how to turn on the hote
shower! But we do love these comforts at the end of the day! Tashi and the
local tibetan guide Tenzinla were extremly knowledgeable of their duties and
accomplished everything. I would highly recommend a trip to Tibet for any
Bhutanese, if possible, and with Adventure Trekking Club would be complete if
you want to feel safe and secure.